“We spend ten days in October in Cristiana's vacation home. It is the loveliest place you can imagine! Just looking out the window puts you in a serene mood. The apartment is simple and beautiful - simply beautiful. A special treat in late October was the heating that made the already cold nights very comfy. Baja Sardinia is a great place for a relaxed fall vacation: very peaceful and fine ice cream in walking distance. We explored the North of Sadegna, where there is so much to discover. We enjoyed the nice beaches in walking distance that were deserted in October. The kids loved climbing the fantastic granite rocks of Capo Testa and we all enjoyed the ferry tour to La Maddalena and walking on Caprera Island. The highlight was our hike up the Monte Limbara mountains starting from the Hotel Limbara through an enchanted forest with a little river. Cristiana was very helpful and warm-hearted. We highly recommend staying there!”
Our vacation home in Sardinia
Our vacation home in Sardinia
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Where is it?
Baja Sardinia has a nice seafront with a small square with restaurants, pizzeria, bars and yummy ice-cream places. There are grocery shops, a supermarket, internet point, hardware and appliance store; the weekly Monday street market offers interesting insights into the peculiar foods and artcafts of Sardinia. All this is a 10 minutes walk or a 2 minutes drive from home.
Seacoast is very close to our place. Nearest and beautiful small beaches are just a very, very short walk away.
The peculiar position of Baja Sardinia allows to easily choose (or enjoy both) between the "sparkling" Costa Smeralda beaches and nightlife, and more relaxed and intimistic experiences on quite desert beaches, untouched nature and beautiful countryside. We strongly favour option 2, but after all we are no more in our 20s. Our daughter, who is in her 20's, sees things in a slightly different way.
Anyway, from Baja Sardinia you drive left at the junction and after less than 10 km you are along the Costa Smeralda. Just google those words, or Porto Cervo, or Cala di Volpe, and there you are. Sea, beaches, coast - all very beautiful and very well known; prices, however, often rise up to exoteric levels.
You drive right at the junction, and you are bound towards and inside real, everyday Sardinia. We love that. The coast is often astonishing and we use to drive up to Santa Teresa Gallura, with some swimmings in a couple of those tiny bays along the road. Forget the crowds, expect maybe some local families on week-ends. Landscape changes every few kilometers, you'd never stop looking for what lies ahead. Or just take the interior road towards Tempio Pausania and experience a wild green countryside populated with oak forests and beautiful, sculpture-like rocks. Testimonies of pre-historical Nuraghe civilization are frequent and often in quite good shape considering their age; some are kept in organized archaeological sites, others are just there on the side of some narrow unpaved country road, waiting.
A ferry from nearby Palau connects with Maddalena and Caprera islands, two small shiny gems. We usually enjoy the archipelago by sailing from even nearer Cannigione on a rented zodiac - just type "arcipelago Maddalena" on Google Images and have a look.
We elected Arzachena as the base for our daily shopping. It's a pleasant 15 minutes drive away, it's a lively village with a choice of stores and supermarkets where no "tourist surcharge" is applied; no stress in finding fresh food items, ready-made local specialities for taking away and enjoying at home, daily top-quality fresh fish sold at very reasonable prices. As far as foods & beverages are concerned (yes, we do love good food and good beverages), discovering Sardinian tradition and products can be quite an illuminating experience. Many farmers and wine producers are nowadays selling on the ground their fruits, cheeses, honeys and surprisingly fascinating wines.
For dining out, choices range from elegant top-quality (and top-bill) luxury restaurants, to cozy, pleasant and perhaps even better quality places charging affordable prices.
Best seasons for enjoying Sardinia, in our opinion, are May to mid-July and mid-August to October. August is all right too of course, however the place is somehow overcharged from holidaymakers from continental Italy and Europe, therefore losing a bit of its magic.
If in doubt, just ask: we really enjoy sharing our views and feelings about a place we love.
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